With the new line for Spring 2019, Five Ten is simultaneously taking advantage of their integrated relationship with Adidas while harkening back to their roots as a brand. Any climber, both new and old, will be interested in the following shoes shown own at Outdoor Retailer last month.
Five Ten invented the approach shoe in 1985 as a technical solution for safely reaching and descending off climbs in Yosemite. The original shoe won awards for originality and performance. By popular demand, Five Ten brought back the original Five Tennie with a few modern tricks under the hood. And, they’ve added a women’s model.
The Five Tennie (pictured top; $125) has a rugged leather upper with a protective toe rand and Stealth S1 rubber to deliver a balance of traction and durability. The outsole includes a technical climbing zone on the toe for extra friction on steep terrain and sock-like construction for ease of entry. These shoes are definitely on my want list.
The new Grandstone ($180) is a high-top shoe for all-day protection on long multi-pitch, trad climbs. The granite-worthy microfiber upper has slight stretch for a bespoke fit. Padded, perforated pods protect both the lateral and medial malleolus (the bony protrusions on each side of the ankle) in the gnarliest of cracks and off-widths. A thermoplastic midsole gives the shoe superior edging properties and all-day support. Rubberized print on the ankle pods and lace add durability. I wore these shoes for a little climbing in Peru recently and found them super comfortable.
Finally, for the new Aleon ($190), Five Ten partnered with Swiss bouldering legend, Fred Nicole, to design this aggressive shoe. It’s meant for steep sport routes and boulders. Leveraging on the new relationship with Adidas, Five Ten uses Primeknit, a flexible, breathable, form-fitting knit with four way stretch for the shoe’s closure, which keeps the shoe light and comfortable around the ankles. The midsole is slightly concave for toeing-in on steep overhangs, and the upper is a minimal-stretch microfiber for a precision fit for the entire life of the shoe. A Stealth C4 rubber outsole delivers great friction over any type of rock.